After a few tranquil days on Moso Island, we were ready to see Vanuatu’s other side. We swapped coral reefs for thick jungle, sandy beaches for ashy plains by taking off to Tanna. And we loved every minute of it.

Tanna Island sits about 225 kms south of Port Vila on Efate, where the main international airport is located. Accessible by small plane or a very slow cargo ship, it’s not the easiest or the cheapest destination to get to. But, we promise, the journey is well worth it.

Day 1: Flying into paradise and across a volcano

After a quick flight on the smallest plane we’ve ever been on, we touched down at Tanna’s tiny White Grass Airport. With a window that acted as a luggage pick-up area, we very quickly realised the kind of trip we were about to have. And already loved it.

Our homestay host, Morris, was waiting for us outside where we hopped into the back of a ute and made our way down the coast. With the wind in our hair and some rogue fruits rolling around our feet we made our way to town to meet the rest of the family. Then, once the kids, parents and grandparents were all onboard the journey really began.

Soon after pulling out of town, and stopping at a roadside stall for fresh vegetables, we drove inland and upwards. It wasn’t long until the pavement gave way to a road of sandy ash, giving us a taste of what was to come once we reached the village at Mount Yasur.

Mount Yasur and the Ash Plains

Rising about 360 metres above the sea, Mount Yasur is one of Tanna Island’s biggest draw cards for tourists. Part of the Ring of Fire that encircles much of the Pacific Ocean, the volcano has been erupting pretty continuously. Yet, it’s surrounded by villages. And we were staying in one.

Our hosts tell us that every now and then, the eruptions are big enough to spew ash onto the land making it difficult to grow crops. Which explains the excess amounts of carrots and greens we picked up along the way.

Most of the villages here are inaccessible by traditional roads, and the only way to get to them is driving across the ashy expanse spreading out from the base of the volcano. You’ll want to keep your sunglasses on and your mouth closed as this ride sure is dusty.

Tanna homestay experience

Covered in ash, we pulled into the driveway of Volcano Island Paradise where we were met by Morris’s smiley wife Susie, shown our room and the incredible view.

While the accommodation here was simple, it’s comfortable, clean and safe. We were asked what time we’d like dinner (not included in the rate, but necessary as there’s nowhere else to go), and then sent off to wander around the village.

Dusty roads meandered around wooden family homes until we reached the village square, where dozens of kids were running around and a local band played music. Curious children came up to us to wave hello and the band encouraged us, or tried to, to dance along.

When we returned, dinner was ready, the sun was setting and the ever-present smoke above Mount Yasur began to take on an orange glow which would last long into the night.

Day 2: Getting to see the natural side of village life and climbing the volcano

After waking up to the panoramic view of the volcano, we started the day with a breakfast overlooking Mount Yasur. Susie rounded up her kids and some of their local friends to take us down to a local waterfall and river for a swim that morning. Of course, complete with more views.

Barefoot, they pummelled down narrow, muddy tracks toward the river which led to a small waterfall. Unfortunately the waterfall was little more than a trickle, so we headed back to the shallow river for a dip. The water was cool and refreshing in the hot sun, and was the perfect way to spend the morning while waiting for our late-afternoon adventure to the top of the mountain.

Climbing Mount Yasur and standing on the rim of a volcano

After a 30-minute guided walk down who-knows-what-tracks, we made our way from the village to the visitor centre.

We learned the hard way that the 9,750 vatu tour price did not include transportation up the volcano. We also learned the hard way that bringing just enough cash for two wasn’t a great idea.

Luckily, we like to hike. So after a 30-minute walk to the visitor centre, we started the 45-minute hike up the volcano. The 4WD access-only road was rough, whether you were on foot or in a car, but has stunning views of the island on the way up.

The higher you climb, the more it feels like you’re stepping onto another planet. Not far from the top, trees and plants give way to rocks and ash.

The final ascent takes you to the edge of the volcano, with just a wooden railing separating you from the steep drop into the crater. Standing at the edge certainly isn’t for the faint hearted, but well worth it if you can bring yourself to it.

Visitors are allowed to stay up here for a few hours and watch as the blue-tined sulphur clouds take on an orange hue as the sun sets over the volcano. The darker it is, the easier it is to see the red flashes of lava spurting from the crater below.

While, no, it wasn’t like the gush of lava you’d expect to see like in the movies, it was still a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Day 3: Meeting the locals

Needing to be back at the airport for a noon flight, we didn’t have much time left on Tanna. But, our hosts recommended we join the village kastom. A bit different on each island of Vanuatu, the kastom can be many different things – houses, stories or dance, to name a few.

Early in the morning, we gathered at the end of a dirt road at an opening with panoramic views of Mount Yasur and the green valley leading up to it. Locals from Imayo Village, where we were staying, including the daughter of our hosts dressed in traditional costume and told stories through dance. They encourage guests to join and, well, don’t really give you a choice in the matter.

And before we knew it, it was time to hop back into the ute and make our way back along the bumpy dirt roads, across the ash plain and along the coast to take off back to Efate for the final stage of our adventure on the north coast.

Is Tanna island worth visiting?

Definitely! While most tourists just visit Efate and stay at island resorts, Tanna is where we felt like we experienced the real Vanuatu.

Once we left the airport, we didn’t see any other tourists until our volcano tour. And even then it was a small group.

Opting for a homestay here allowed us to immerse ourselves in the island life. Everyone in the village we stayed in was warm and welcoming and seemed genuinely happy to have us around.

Of course, we can’t forget the scenery. Mount Yasur is the most active volcano in the country and it’s very accessible… once you’re on the island that is.

Although we didn’t visit these spots, the Blue Cave and Sulphur Bay hot springs are also major draws.

How do I get to Tanna island, Vanuatu?

There’s two options for getting from Port Villa to Tanna: the cheap-but-expensive flight or the slow-but-cheap boat.

Flying from Port Vila, Efate to Tanna

We admit, it’s not that easy these days. Since Air Vanuatu went into administration in 2024, you can no longer make bookings on its website or through online travel agencies. Flights can be booked via email with the Air Vanuatu team or via its call centre.

As of the time of writing, two flights were available between Port Vila and Tanna:

• Monday: 11am departure from Port Vila, 12:20pm return from Tanna
• Wednesday: 11am departure from Port Vila, 12:20pm return from Tanna
• Thursday: 7:30am departure from Port Vila, 8:50am return from Tanna
• Friday: 11am departure from Port Vila, 12:20pm return from Tanna
• Saturday: 11am departure from Port Vila, 12:20pm return from Tanna
• Sunday: 11am departure from Port Vila, 12:20pm return from Tanna

Taking the boat from Port Vila, Efate to Tanna

Unreliable and difficult to get any official information about, the boat from Efate to Tanna is probably not for the inexperienced or faint-hearted traveller.

Cargo ship and ferry combined, the ship from Port Vila to Tanna departs once or twice per week. The journey itself takes 12-20 hours. The best way to stay on top of the schedule is to follow the Vanuatu Ferry Facebook page.

How long should you plan to spend on Tanna?

We stayed on the island for two nights, but could have easily stayed another night or two and still had plenty to do.

While Mount Yasur and spending time in a local village are the two things that draw most travellers to the island, there are also beaches, the Blue Cave and hot springs.

Can you do a day trip to Tanna island from Port Vila?

Technically, yes. But we highly recommend staying overnight (or two) to truly experience the island. We stayed for two and feel there’s so much more here that we weren’t able to see.

If you are short on time and have the money to spend for a day trip though, there are a few companies offering it with charter flights from Port Vila:

Air Taxi Vanuatu

Includes: Airport transfers in Port Vila, return flights to Tanna, a 4WD safari across the island, Mount Yasur entry fee and guided tour, picnic lunch on the volcano
Price: 69,000 vatu
Visit website

Unity Airlines

Includes: Return flights from Port Vila to Tanna, meet-and-greet at Tanna Airport, 4WD safari across the island, Mount Yasur entry fee, drive through local villages
Price: 69,000 vatu
Visit Website

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