3-days in Mudgee: The perfect long weekend wine escape

Three days of sipping wine, watching kangaroos hop around and enjoying the winter sun.

Determined to get away for the June long weekend without spending a fortune, we settled on Mudgee. Being a 3.5-hour drive from Sydney with relatively affordable accommodation in the off-season, made it an easy choice.

What to do in Mudgee on Day 1

Lazy Oak Wines

After a longer-than-expected drive from Sydney, we arrived in Mudgee in the late afternoon. We passed through town quickly though, as we had a 3pm booking at Lazy Oak Wines. Home to Australia’s only white merlot, this winery has a charming outdoor sitting area with wine barrels as tables overlooking the vines and surrounding rolling hills.

Unfortunately you’re not able to do wine tastings out there, but we did manage to snag a table overlooking it just outside the entrance to the cellar door.

Accompanied by the resident guineafowl wandering around our feet, the team at the cellar door were welcoming and inviting. But, we would have liked a bit more of a background and story about the wine we were trying.

We did learn that this winery is sort-of new. Previously called Miramar, it’s been running under the Lazy Oak name for just a few years. Most of what they make are reds and rosés, one of the latter was what ended up being our favourite drop here. The Doux Rose was a sweet-but-not-too-sweet rosé that we felt complemented the grazing box we had for lunch ($70 for two) perfectly.

Recommended? Yes, while it didn’t have our favourite wines of the weekend, it’s a great spot to enjoy a grazing box over lunch while looking at the vines.

Thanks to a late-arriving tour group, we were able to stay well past the 4pm closing time.

Dinner in town

After asking if we had any idea where we were going to have dinner, the woman walking us through the wines recommended we try Cade Kitchen.

(One thing we found during our few days in the Mudgee Region, is that everyone was so hospitable. Multiple times we came across people wanting to make sure we knew we had somewhere to go for dinner, we knew how to get around and even that we had a way of getting home at night.)

Unfortunately for us, as it had great reviews, we weren’t able to get into Cade Kitchen that night. But even the staff there were nothing but hospitable.

We knew getting a table for two on the Saturday evening of a long weekend was a long shot, but when we called they said they’ll see what they can do, and took our name and number. By 7pm we didn’t get a call, so decided to check out one of two breweries in town.

Just after sitting down at Mudgee Brewery with a few drinks and placing out order, Cade Kitchen called with a table for us. With the promise of visiting next time and that we’d have a lovely long weekend, we chowed down and went for a wander around town.

What to do in Mudgee on Day 2

We had a full roster of wineries to visit today, and grabbing a quick breakfast in town at a well-rated bakery, Althea by Zin, was all we had time for.

Being a mid-June morning, it was pretty frosty and hovered just above freezing when we awoke, so warm pastries and hot coffees were just what we needed to get going. And it seemed like most of Mudgee had the same idea as it was one of the busiest places we passed on our way through town.

Rosby Wines

We then headed just north of the city up to Rosby Wines. Being about 10am with at least four more wineries on our schedule for the day, we weren’t actually here to try any wines. We were here to wander through the open-air gallery.

Home to the largest sculpture garden in regional New South Wales, Sculptures in the Garden is lovely spot to spend a morning in Mudgee before you’re ready to start a day of wine tasting. This particular morning was crisp and clear, and the rust-coloured sculptures juxtaposed beautifully against the deep-blue sky.

Bring kicked off by Rosby co-owner Kay Norton-Knight, the outdoor exhibit has been there for 11 years and showcases hundreds of artists’ work.

The wine-tasting area was nestled into the gardens, too, providing a brilliant backdrop — one we’ll need to come back to experience.

Recommended? Yes, but we can’t speak for the wines.

Short Sheep

Sometimes, you just need to judge a book by its cover. And the name alone attracted us to this small winery.

After a years-long shut-down, we just happened to visit on Short Sheep‘s opening weekend and were treated to one of our favourite tasting experiences of the weekend. First, we were told the tastings are free (which seems harder and harder to come by these days), and then we were told they’re best paired with food… which was also, very surprisingly free!

From crackers with a fresh prawn dip and honey-drizzled brie to smoked lamb and mushroom stroganoff, we were super impressed with the generous offering. The friendly owner walked us through the wines and recommended which nibbles paired best with each drop, which was enjoyed on a wine barrel-cum-table next to wide doors open to a sun-drenched paddock.

And now, back to the name.

Of course, we asked about the sheep and were promptly taken out of the doors and introduced to the sheep. And they certainly were short! We were told they’re pretty common in New Zealand, and in Mudgee now, too, around vineyards during the winter months. Turns out, these fluffy creatures eat the grass and weeds around the vines and are pretty adorable to look at.

Before we left though, we were treated to something extra special. Six months into an 18-month stay in barrels, Short Sheep’s newest wine was brought out to us as a little teaser for what we can get bottled in a year’s time. It’s about then that we decided we’ll need to do a return trip to Mudgee.

Recommended? Yes.

This afternoon’s wineries were all super-conveniently located near our hotel, so we decided to ditch the car, walk to the wineries and really enjoy the wine.

Our two-night stay was at the Mudgee Vineyard Motor Inn, a small motel that was basic but had a perfect location for us. And, the price was right. Even over the long weekend, it only set us back about $150 per night.

Heslop Wines

After having no luck getting a table for a tasting at the very crowded Baker Williams Distillery, we walked around to Heslop Wines, past vineyards full of adorable lambs grazing.

This small, family-run winery hosts its tastings at The Cottage and is truly a quaint, country New South Wales setting. We were seated by the son in a sunny spot on the veranda, and walked through their wines. His blends, the Mr Rascal range, were by far our favourite… And we may have left with a bottle.

Recommended? Yes, but if you’re tight on time and I did need to pick drop a winery from this itinerary it probably would be this one.

10s Estate

Part fig and cherry orchard, part winery, 10s Estate ended up being a real highlight of the weekend. Mostly due to the wonderful owner, Ami.

Friendly, welcoming and clearly passionate about creating a hangover-free wine, she shared with us some of the dried fruit from the farm and the wines they’re creating. Only having owned the estate for a few years, the winery is currently Australian Certified Organic in conversion with the first fully-organic wines yet to come. But what has come so far was delightful, so we’re excited to see what will come from this place.

Recommended? Yes.

Yeates

Making it with enough time to spare for a final tasting of the day, we walked across the street to Yeates, home to some of the oldest vines in Mudgee.

With the resident, and aptly named golden retriever, Tipsy, wandering around from table to table, we enjoyed a selection of eight wines while watching the sun set over the vines and small pond nearby.

It truly was the perfect end to a full-day of wine tasting in Mudgee.

Recommended? Yes

Not being able to get a reservation at our top picks in town, and having an affinity for BBQ, we were drawn to the Smokin’ Bro & Co for dinner on our final night in Mudgee.

Located inside Three Tails Brewery, it’s got a casual-pub vibe with plenty of beers to try out as well. Especially ideal if you’re getting a bit over wine.

What to do in Mudgee on Day 3

Planning on taking a leisurely drive back to Sydney via the town of Rylstone and the Blue Mountains, we set off just before 10am. not too early, but a time that wouldn’t get us home too late.

Logan Wines

After having a glass of Logan Wines‘ Tempranillo with dinner in between beers at Mudgee Brewing Co, we knew we couldn’t leave Mudgee without a bottle.

The winery sits just south of the city and is on the way back to Sydney, and is a near-perfect setting. The cellar door sits on top of a hill with a large patio (or plenty of windows and a toasty fire inside) where you can try the estate’s rather affordable wines.

While we were planning to just pick up the bottle and go, now knowing when we’ll next be in Mudgee, we decided to do a tasting. And soon left with not just the bottle we went in for, but three different wines.

Recommended? Yes

Rylstone and a unique yum cha lunch

A slight detour off the Castlereagh Highway back toward Sydney, Rylstone is a charming country town that’s a perfect stopover for lunch and petrol.

We were recommended “the yum cha place” in town, which seemed like an incredibly odd fit. A small country town and an authentic Chinese dumpling restaurant don’t usually go hand-in-hand, but what they’ve done with the place is just great.

While it doesn’t have a website and we didn’t get much information about the place when we were there, food blogger Not Quite Nigella notes the chef hails from Xi’an and got started by inviting friends over for homemade meals. And the place very much has that vibe.

When you walk into 29 Nine 99, you feel like you’re walking into a home. Kitschy Chinese knick knacks sits on every surface and shelf and purchasable art hands on the walls.

Now, if you’re looking for a yum cha experience where waitresses pushing trollies packed with bamboo baskets of steaming dumplings, this is not the place you’ll get that. Here, you get the option of how many dumplings you want, not what’s inside of them. (We opted for eight, and it was just the right amount.)

Along with your dumpling, you’ll also get to choose a green tea to sip with your meal and a sweet or savoury bun. We got one BBQ pork bun and one black sesame to try one of each.

Driving back through the Blue Mountains

Driving back to Sydney from Mudgee, you can go one of two ways. Via Katoomba or via Richmond. Both take about the same amount of time. Having been the classic Katoomba way many times before, we opted to drive the northerly route. (If you’re hungry on the way, there’s a few pie shops along the drive!)

Just over half-way back to the city, there’s a small parking area at the beginning of the track out to Walls Lookout. It’s a relatively short walk, but a perfect place to stretch your legs and be treated with incredible views of the Grose Valley.

Where to eat in Mudgee

We learned the hard way that if you’re going to Mudgee on a long weekend you need to book ahead. Far ahead.

Quite a few people recommended Zin House, Pipeclay Pumphouse and Cade Kitchen, but unfortunately we weren’t able to get a table at any of them.

But, of course, we did manage to find somewhere to eat! And if you’re after a more affordable place than Zin or Pipeclay (while they came recommended, they also weren’t cheap), there are still options for you.

Mudgee Brewing Co.

If you’re looking for something to sip other than wine, then the next thing down the list is probably going to be beer.

One of two breweries in town, Mudgee Brewing Co‘s beers were decent and the overall vibe was casual-yet-cosy on a cold winter’s night. The food, however, was pretty average. It certainly fuelled us for the night, but it wasn’t anything to write home about.

Recommended? Yes, for drinks.

Althea by Zin

A French cafe with a Greek name in country Australia creates the perfect light breakfast spot. Sitting on an unassuming corner across from the town’s McDonald’s is Althea by Zin. The cafe bakes fresh bread, pastries and cakes each day and we had a breakfast pizza on fresh focaccia and a pork-and-fennel sausage roll.

There’s a few tables in a courtyard behind the cafe where you can enjoy your pastries and coffees (which come with a bite-sized meringue) in the sun.

Recommended? Yes

Smokin’ Bro & Co

Found inside of Three Tails Brewery, Smokin’ Bro & Co cooks up Southern US-style BBQ like juicy brisket, pork and kranskies from the pub kitchen.

While the meats were delicious, one of the real highlights were the sides. It was a busy, long-weekend Saturday night so most of them weren’t available, but the mac ‘n cheese with bacon and creamy BBQ corn were available. And corn was some of the best we’ve ever had. Ever.

Recommended? Yes.

29 Nine 99 Yum Cha & Tea House

Housed inside one of the many historic buildings in Rylstone, this yum cha restaurant was an unexpected treat in town. Charming rooms with a unique mix of Chinese and Australian decor were staffed by kind-but-slightly-flustered waitresses who walked everyone through the non-traditional menu.

You had the option to choose from six, eight, 12, or more dumplings, along with a sweet or savoury bun and a pot of tea of your choice.

Unfortunately as all chef’s, it choice when it came to the dumplings. Of course, if there was something you didn’t eat or were allergic to, they could accommodate, but other than that you weren’t able to pick and choose what you got. But, luckily, that turned out not to be a bad thing at all.

Each two-bite dumpling was unique to the next. Fillings we had included prawns, scallops, crab, chicken, beef, duck and vegetables.

Recommended? Yes

Where to stay in Mudgee

Booking relatively last-minute for a long weekend getaway didn’t leave us many accommodation choices in Mudgee. But we did manage to find a room at The Vineyard Motor Inn.

It’s absolutely nothing flash, but was just perfect for what we needed.

Surrounded by vineyards and within walking distance to multiple wineries, it suited our needs for the weekend just fine. Staying here let us leave the car behind and walk to Heslop, 10s and Yeates. We didn’t have to worry about how much wine we were tasting at each one.

Plus, if you’re a stickler for stars, this is the place. The clear Mudgee sky and distance of a few kilometres from the city meant little light pollution. The skies above the hotel were pretty spectacular.

Find a stay that works for you in Mudgee

How to get to Mudgee

The easiest way to get to Mudgee is by car, whether its your own or one you’ve hired.

From either Newcastle or Sydney, it’s about a 3.5-hour drive. While we can’t speak for the drive from Newcastle, the drive from Sydney (once you pass Richmond) is scenic. It’s mostly a two-lane road so if there is traffic, things can get a bit slow at times. Especially if you’re travelling over a long weekend like we were.

If you can’t drive, getting there won’t be super easy. From Sydney, you can take a train to Lithgow, and then catch a bus. But that journey will take you about five hours each way.

There is an airport in Mudgee, but there are very limited flight options.

When to go to Mudgee

Although we went to Mudgee in winter, we’d recommend visiting in either spring or autumn.

In general, Mudgee is quite dry and these times of year have very pleasant temperature. September could be a real winner. The temperatures are just starting to warm up and it’s also Mudgee Food and Wine Month.

On a bright, sunny day, the afternoons in June were quite lovely. But, the same can’t be said about the mornings or evenings. In fact, winters in Mudgee can get quite cold, with temperatures dipping below freezing overnight.

On the contrary, summer temperatures can soar and many of the cellar doors sat you outside.